Nobody in the car but you.

Eight days down the dunes and the delta under your own power. We book the beds, move the bags and draw the route; you ride it at whatever pace the morning suggests.

Baroque Vilnius, modernist Kaunas, a hill of a hundred thousand crosses and a sand spit in the sea. The whole country in a week, with the car only for the middle of it.

Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn on scheduled trains and coaches, with the seats booked and the luggage moved. Three UNESCO old towns and nothing to park.

Gdańsk, the largest brick castle on earth, two thousand lakes and a capital rebuilt from paintings. The half of Poland the Kraków trips never reach.

Ninety-six kilometres of waymarked coast from the wooden villas of Jūrmala to Cape Kolka, where two seas visibly collide. Day packs only; the bags go ahead.

Vilnius to Tallinn with your own keys. The car, the hotels, the ferry slots and a route book that knows which turn you will miss.

Hiiumaa, Saaremaa and Muhu with every ferry slot booked. The emptiest roads in the Baltics and a manor house at the end of them.

Out of Riga and back to it: the Gauja valley, Cape Kolka where two seas meet, a Soviet naval port, and Rundāle before the coaches arrive.